Nylon vs dyneema slings weight reddit. I use 6mm nylon cord.

Nylon vs dyneema slings weight reddit It was an experiment that turned out not to be worth it for me. A kind of consensus in climbing seems to be that it's generally ok to use Dyneema as long as you know what its limitations are and use it accordingly. Feb 3, 2017 · The peak impact force will be lower with a nylon anchor sling than with a dyneema sling, but high enough in either case to potentially cause injury to the climber or to cause gear to pull out. A factor 2 fall on the anchor was I think 16kn for nylon, 25 for dyneema and only 8kn for an anchor made using ropes. Something to consider. What would the best material be for the highest coefficient of friction with flat nylon webbing rolled around 9. I'm planning on picking up a Defy Insidious sling and they offer it in waxed canvas and a ballistic nylon. Dyneema. The melting temperature doesn't really matter either - I don't think there's been a single documented case of melted slings in alpine draws during proper use. Standing around for 10min trying to untie a frozen, weighted dyneema sling is bad style. cheaper; colorful Feb 11, 2016 · You’ve seen all the sling choices and aren’t sure: Dyneema, Spectra, Dynex or Nylon. Dynema looses more strength in nots and a nylon sling has a bit of stretch reducing shock loading. Feb 25, 2019 · Dyneema (a brand name for ultra high molecular weight polyethylene, or UHMWPE) is incredibly strong for its weight. 1. 6, I assume it is a blend of the two. Knots like the water knot are relatively slippy (even in nylon, good idea to check any hand tied slings before you use them) so arent a good idea in dyneema. Tldr: climbing is a trade-off of risks/weight/ect. 1x 240cm nylon runner that is rarely used, only for the biggest trees (and often as a basket hitch) or when the three pieces are in wildly different spots. It only really matters of you are using it as a personal tether and fall directly on it. I included a sewn nylon and hand tied draw as I have seen both in the wild. That doesn't surprise me that they are thick. 8mm or 10mm Dyneema. It also eliminates the need for a 18L ish backpack. They are slimmer in width than a traditional nylon sling, but not as thin as a dyneema one, and much thicker in depth and stiffer than a purely nylon or dyneema sling. The Cordura branded 1680D on the AER City Pack is pretty good. The nylon would stretch quickly under the tents tension forces and the dyneema would take all the load. 6, nylon 6. 15mm or 9/16" should be fine. The slings seem to have twice the durability, so wouldn't those be my safest bet? I can't wrap my head around which approach is the hardest to mess up, which is probably the one I'd use. doubling the loop doubles the strength of the system. Hence the name. the accessory cord is not climbing specific so it's rated for single line loads and lists the breaking The 150D Hybrid Dyneema used in the test is probably quite similar to the CT9Hw6/blkwov6 (also 150D face fabric) they use in the Guerilla X. Namely: the older PAS devices were made of nylon or dyneema. If we anchor ourselves from our harness to the wall using nylon and then take a 10kn dynamic fall, the nylon will stretch absorbing say half of this force. The reason dyneema breaks in those videos is not due to the peak forces being applied, but rather the how dynamic the force is applied. Jul 2, 2018 · I have been using the clove hitch with a Dyneema sling (Clove Hitch Trad Anchor) to build my anchors, but after watching the DMM Video(DMM Sling test) of them breaking slings, with the knotted Dyneema breaking at way less than the knotted Nylon sling, I am considering changing to the Nylon 240cm sling. One of the tests they do is to put a knot in and break test. NYLON. Feb 9, 2023 · Short slings, long slings, thick slings, thin slings, yellow, black, green and red. Use a water knot and leave 3" tails. The nylon sling is often rated significantly lower than the dyneema sling, yet when both have a sufficient dynamic force (dropping a few hundred pounds with a fall factor of 2), then routinely the nylon sling survives and the dyneema one does Apr 12, 2019 · The Metolius Open Loop Sling is made of a blend between Dyneema and Nylon fibers, with the white Dyneema fibers in the middle, and the green Nylon fibers woven around the edges. For rock I use eldlrid slings that are nylon covered dyneema for abrasion resistance and untying ease. Apr 11, 2019 · The Mammut Contact Sling is the perfect example of what can be gained by using the top of the line technology, in this case Dyneema fiber, to lower the weight and size of a product. I generally prefer to clove hitch into the master point, attached a 2nd locker for my follower to clip into, and use a reverso on the shelf as my belay device. Unless you are racking up every piece of gear you own for a big wall, the extra weight/bulk is probably not a problem. a basic knot will reduce the strength of the rope by ~50% as a general guideline. 1x 120cm nylon runner, often used for a clove v configuration or girthing a medium tree when I'm not worried about redundancy. Wear and actual use has the greatest detrimental effect on sling lifespan. The result is the sling when fully loaded only has to hold 5kn of this force. Dyneema denim is woven dyneema and is very strong and resistant to abrasion. When a dyneema sling is used in its place all 10kn must be held by the sling as Jul 10, 2023 · However, you can also make your own PAS. here are options all solids are keylock: $130 solid/wire mixed 11mm x 17cm dyneema 10pc set $100 solid straight/bent 16mm x 12cm nylon 10pc set For the 4 foot slings, my preference is to tie them out of nylon (not Dyneema) webbing. I like the 6mm rope. You'll need about 10 feet of webbing to make a 4 foot sling. For those interested there's an interesting test done and documented by DMM comparing the strength of Dyneema vs. Edit: I forgot a really important point, brought up by the comments below, Dyneema is tricky to knot: 1. In recent years ultra-high-molecular-weight (UHMW) polyethylenes, with brand names like Dyneema, Dynex and Spectra have gained popularity. Nylon is the correct tool if it might see friction. Generally speaking there are two kinds of nylon, nylon 6 and nylon 6. Aug 31, 2020 · The discussion over nylon vs. The Dyneema sling with an overhand knot broke at 11. 4mm) or 11/16" (17. It doesn't really matter in the end, you could go with any certified brand. X-Pac I want to love for it’s waterproofing. Junk is rated for way more than you need. In this section, we’ll compare Cordura with three other common materials used for rifle slings – nylon, polyester, and leather. While Cordura is a type of nylon, it is specifically engineered for enhanced durability and wear-resistance. 7 kN) at the anchor to pull a Wallnut 11 wire (12 kN) apart. Slings or ropes with Dyneema® are very strong and durable, yet lightweight and easy and safe to handle. Add in that spectra and dyneema are more expensive, and the only advantage of these materials is that they are smaller and lighter weight than nylon pieces. My usual preference for building an anchor on trad routes is the standard three piece system using a cordalette. 0s tend to be reached for first, perhaps out of comfort. Mar 1, 2018 · I use the rope or dyneema slings 90% of the time. Cordalette is nice for v-thread ice anchors. This makes them the best choice for situations such as extending a belay device , replacing anchor webbing or attaching yourself to an anchor before abseiling . Sewn slings will tend to be stronger than knotted cord, though using a longer cord & more wraps can make up for that (at the expense of weight and time). Posted by u/drflex - 3 votes and 11 comments May 26, 2020 · dyneema for alpine draws, have a few nylon kicking around still use em for random stuff mostly for sport dogbones, have a few dyneema with light carabiners for weight saving trips, but mostly use nylon for projecting and grabbing draws and stiffer so easier to clip. Criteria to Consider for DIY Personal Anchor Systems Hello, I'm trying to decide whether to buy the AER TP3 1680D cordura or XPAC (for the purposes of travelling). slings. In the climbing world, that rating is the break strength, not the safe working load limit! And any knots significantly reduce the strength of dyneema slings. But it means we can see the impact of the material. Most trad climbers would prefer to make do with whatever's already on their rack (ie slings) for the rappels rather than bringing a bulkier specialty piece. r/Ultralight is the largest online Ultralight Backcountry Backpacking community! This sub is about overnight backcountry backpacking, with a focus on moving efficiently, packing light, generally aiming at a sub 10 pound base weight, and following LNT principles. 6KN for rope anchors during factor 2 fall VS Nylon at 19. There's not much friction involved to generate heat compared to using an auto-block as a 3rd hand when rappelling. There's also the drop tower tests that DMM has done. dynamic is a moot point considering you should never take a direct fall on either spectra or nylon slings. As you probably know, dyneema doesn't stretch at all. Mar 13, 2012 · Lets look at a quick example. Nylon slings aren't dynamic, they have a bit more stretch but the stretch is small enough that they are still very much a static peice off gear. Been a long time since I used 60 cm nylon slings for the last time. . Before you link me to other threads of nylon vs dyneema, please read the response I got from Dan's team below as this is not normal dyneema. Sep 4, 2010 · This is simply because there is significantly less material in the Dyneema slings than the nylon slings currently on the market. Sewn slings are better in strength, weight and usability. The results were quite shocking to me. dmm has a very nice video regarding slings. but it needs more replacing. (the sliding x is not redundant in the sling). Rhobic is stronger then nylon 6 and not as strong as nylon 6. Two popular materials used for webbing slings are Dyneema and Nylon. 5kN (sketchy). 0s are all Mammut Contacts made with dyneema so they're pretty good and, according to store pages, they can hold a 22 kn fall. 6 g weight jump moving from 7/16″ Dyneema slings to 1/2″ hybrid slings and another big jump of +117. That is comparing apples to oranges (or at least pears). Thus, DCF fabrics can achieve the same strength as nylon at a much lower weight. In a top-roping situation, your anchor slings are fine: they are 1) likely under constant load (i. Use the right tool for the right application. Very strong material. weight, water absorption means that any strength advantage nylon has in dry conditions can disappear in wet/stormy conditions (where you most need that strength) because it gives up 10% strength while potentially doubling in weight. Some people use 7mm cordelettes(10kn), some people use nylon or dyneema slings(22kn), and some people use the rope. I use a nylon sling for this. I am leaning towards the cordura as I value durability and smooth zippers over weight and waterproofness. Nylon. However, I have read many reddit posts about cordura ballistic nylon being highly abrasive (mainly on goruck 1000D bags) and that it eats away at clothing when it comes in contact 7. No one-size-fits all in either climbing style (blocks vs swing) or anchor building (slings vs rope). A figure of 8/overhand isnt going anywhere, though. Polyester has also been used, but it's not nearly as common as nylon. However, I'll say that my Black Diamond nylon 18. So, you can use either nylon or Dyneema to ascend the rope. Woven dyneema is a whole different beast, but still very hard to find. 5mm would widely be considered too thin. That looks like a dyneema/spectra sling for climbing. 6mm in reality is probably fine - but you don't see too many folks using it. I carry a mix of Dyneema and nylon slings. You're using the FB knot to ascend the rope. The X-pac is completely watertight and gives the body a lot more structure than normal nylon would do. BD slings are probably most popular just cause BD is ubiquitous. tjq hgd izci qfhm nuhir hufandd haclsk dzlzwiaa sbhmz cpzbcg hpmfdyg oliyu ouidh vqp vqwgwzi